Sizes: 35" (38" - 41" - 44" - 48" - 53" - 57" - 61") finished garment chest measurement
This knit hemmed short sleeved jacket is a true treasure. Whether worn over a sheath dress for a special evening out or with a camisole and a pair of jeans, this little Chanel style jacket always looks classy.
I am particularly thrilled with the fit of this knit hemmed edge jacket since the shoulder width is perfect. More than anything else, the shoulder width is the key to a well-fitting garment. "Shoulder width" refers to the measurement between the little bumps on top of both shoulders, BEFORE the ball joints - not between the far ends of the ball joints. Compare the shoulder fit of this knitted jacket with the fit of the shoulder width on my light blue and striped knit lapel-collared jackets (at http://www.conniehester.com/knit-short-jacket-pattern.htm) where I mistakenly knit them to fit my outer shoulder measurement. I still love the 2 jackets and wear them a lot, but now I know where the shoulder width of my knit jackets needs to be.
The collar on this knit jacket with knit facings is double-knit in order to provide its own support. It doesn't flop about or splay flat against the shoulders. It stands on its own as the collar on a Chanel style jacket should. Details are provided for a way of making the double-knitting very easy. There is also an option for beading (or not) the long outer edge of the collar. Detailed instructions are included for knitting the beads into place.
Neatly constructed buttonholes on the Right Front are repeated on the Right Front Facing as noted by row and stitch count for each individual size. Crisp turn rows are created for all hems and facings.
To create a well-fitted contoured knit jacket body, step-by-step instructions (by row and stitch count for each of the 8 individual sizes) are included for inserting OPTIONAL short row and/or vertical bust darts. They allow for a perfect fit at the shoulders and across the back while adding personalized extra shaping over the bust area. The black hemmed short sleeved jacket seen here was knit without short rows or vertical bust darts. The over-sized (on this model) tan knit jacket includes 1" vertical bust darts for a more tailored fit. For more illustrated information about the role of bust darts in contouring the body of a knitted garment, refer to my Bust Darts Tutorial at http://www.conniehester.com/knitting-bust-darts.htm . Knitted short rows and vertical bust darts can make the days of knitting a tent, in order to cover all body parts adequately, nothing more than a barbaric practice of the past.
Since it is simply impossible to design for every possible body shape and design option, measurements are included throughout the instructions to allow adjustments to be made for the perfect personal fit, as desired.
Living in Texas, where it is hot and humid much of the year, I chose to knit my hemmed short sleeved jacket in 3/2 perle cotton (1260 yds per lb, or 18 wraps per inch) so that I can wear it all year 'round. Perle cotton also dyes easily in fiber-reactive Procion MX dyes. Any sock or fingering-weight yarn which produces gauge will work, including any combination of finer yarns which together constitute a somewhat fingering-weight.
Knit gauge in Stockinette Stitch is 7 stitches and 10 rows per inch on Size 3 US needles. This produces a stable yet nicely draping gauge which will not sag, stretch, or otherwise distort. The resulting fabric feels so good against the skin.
Required Yardage: 1202 [1328, 1416, 1681, 1936, 2171, 2418, 2671] yds. If choose to insert, say, 3" of bust shaping, for example, 1279 [1410, 1503, 1774, 2036, 2279, 2533, 2793] yds would be needed. Detailed yardage options are included in the pattern packet.
The illustrations below in yellow are a Left Front from a jacket which I knitted with an acrylic worsted-weight yarn on size 4 US needles to create a very stiff fabric, in order to clearly illustrate the sort of shaping which 3" of short rows produces. I stuffed the middle portion of the dart area, but the extra 3" goes all the way across the chest and thus can accommodate high-chest, mid-chest, and/or low-chest fullness.
For more information about knitted contour shaping, see my tutorial on Knitting Bust Darts.
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The illustrations below were knitted with an acrylic worsted-weight yarn on size 4 US needles to create a very stiff fabric, in order to clearly illustrate the sort of shaping which 1" and 3" vertical bust darts produces. The extra space created does not go all the way across the chest, as with short-row shaping (refer to the yellow illustrations above: 3-inch Short-Row Shaping.). Very detailed directions for the optional addition of short row and/or vertical bust dart shaping for each size are included in the 13 pages of instructions. For more information about knitted contour shaping, see my tutorial on Knitting Bust Darts.
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